Ella and I departed Homer on a stellar sunny day about mid morning. The Van effortlessly purred all the way to Whittier like Buddha breathing despite our rather heavy load of firewood, groceries, tools, and boating accouterments. We were in plenty of time to explore out the Blackstone Road and do a couple walkabouts around the Harbor before boarding the Kennicott and departing right on schedule at 2145. Waterfalls and retreating glaciers matched the white stream of our wake as we thrummed out of Passage Canal into the darkening night.
Once the van was secured on the car deck I took a load of stuff up to my roomette off the sun deck, glad to have a porthole on the port side to see the coast as we head for Yakutat – the pinnacle off kayak Island is beautiful.
St. Elias range looms among some clouds to the North and we are about 3 hours out of Yakutat. The weather is terrific, warm on the sunny side of the boat out of the wind -variable wind 10 knots; seas 4 ft with some spotty white caps. I sure would be happy see these kind of seas when I make it back this way. It may not be as easy to keep from spilling your tea in a vessel 355 ft shorter but it would be a good ride.
A rosy sunset lit the calm waters of Yakutat and painted the clearest silhouette behind Mt. St. Elias as we pulled away from the bay. I’ve never seen it so clear and majestic looking, rising so sharply from sea level. What a mountain, with a higher vertical rise than either Denali or Everest! Mt. Logan, further inland and a thousand feet higher was not visible.
I didn’t awaken until we passed Cape Spencer and were almost to the entrance of Glacier Bay where Cross Sound meets Icy Strait. Wooded lands lined both shores broken by many coves, inlets, and bays. Large groups of porpoise fed in some of the rips and the short gray chop was occasionally marked by the black fin of an orca and once a Humpback breaching. We spent a few hours in Auke Bay exchanging vehicles then travelled down east of Mansfield Peninsula between Admiralty Island and the mainland in Stephens passage. We threaded between a few scattered icebergs that must have come out of Taku Inlet south of Juneau.
Spouting whales on both sides of the ship as we pass Gambier Bay on Admiralty Island – it was only about 20 miles west of here, 44 years ago, when our helicopter lost power at 1700 feet and we swirled down into the trees.
Bit of a swell through Dixon Entrance, then steady on as we approach several large tankers and the night lights of Prince Rupert. And once again the stars and welcome of the Big Dipper
Awoke just after we passed Bella Bella and are threading our way between the islands and mainland along Fitz Hugh Sound. Quiet water, low clouds, occasional rain, as we glide by all this undulating verdant untrammeled land.
Ella joins the dog parade on the car deck and has a good dump. She has been a model companion. Back to my book, The Emerald Mile.
Queen Charlotte Sound. A little pitch and roll exposed to the open Pacific off Cape Caution from Mcinnes Island to Pine Island. Forecast reads SE winds 10-20 knots; seas 2-3 meters. They are nicely spaced. Changing lines of white address the coast from crashing surf.
